Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
